
Saturday May 28 2022
State 50. This challenge has come a long way. And indeed, this final race required me to travel an exceptionally long way, just to reach the start line. The start line of the Prince of Wales Island Half Marathon, Alaska.
I flew from Charlotte to Seattle, leaving Wednesday morning around 1000. I landed around 1330 and met my Mum who had flown in direct from Heathrow. We boarded our next plane, an Alaskan airlines flight to Ketchikan – a port town on the southern tip of the Archipelago. We landed, picked up luggage and our rental (a Jeep), and drove onto the boat that ferries people from the airport to the main line. We drove to our Air BnB, atop a very steep hill, overlooking one of the bays of Ketchikan, and settled in for our stay in the Black Bear Room.
Arriving in Seattle, then Alaska –



I went for a five mile shake out run – it was nice to take in the town, but less nice to run back up the incredibly steep hill to the property. We walked to dinner at the Cape Fox Lodge and had some nice salmon.
The next morning we chatted with our host a little, then checked out. We picked up some food from the A&P grocery store, then met Becca as she came in from Seattle. She had flown there via ORD the evening before. We grabbed a snack and drove to Totem Bight State Historic Park to take in some Native Alaskan heritage. Then we drove to town and looked round the Tongass Historical Center, explaining the history of the town and surrounding area. We walked down the sea front and grabbed a nice lunch at New York Cafe. After that, we explored Creek Street together, then headed to the Inter Island Ferry Terminal, to drive aboard the 1530 to Prince of Wales Island.







The crossing to Hollis was very smooth, with some beautiful nautical views to be taken in en route to port. Our POW Air BnB host actually worked on the ferry, so having met onboard, we waited for him to disembark and followed him west across the island to his home. He showed us around the Air BnB, which was very nice, and we unpacked. I went on a three mile run along the Cemetery Island trail, grabbed a quick shower, and headed out with Becca to TK’s at The Craig Inn for tea.
The crossing –

Prince of Wales Island Bald Eagles –







Views and walks from the Air BnB –





The next day we explored POW some more. We drove around Craig to get a lay of the land, then over to Klawok to look at some more totems. Then we headed east. We looked briefly at Thorne Bay, got some directions from the man in the local tackle shop, and headed out into the back country, on dirt roads. We eventually found our way to the Salt Chuck Mine Interpretive Trail – a fascinating site, full of history, natural beauty, and exemplary relics of man’s mining exploits of a bygone era.
Klawok Totems –

Thorne Bay Salt Chuck Mine –










We then stayed on the back roads, and made our way to the tiny Native Alaskan village of Kasaan. We viewed more Totems, and went on the beautiful forest trail to the US’s only remaining Haida Whale House. We then made our way back to Craig and picked up Groceries for making tea at home, after calling in to Craig High School for race packet pickup.







Back at the Air BnB, we BBQd some nice NY Strip steaks, corn and potatoes and headed to bed. Sleep was always a bit of a challenge in Alaska. On POW, the sun went down after 2100, and rose again at 0245!
Saturday morning, we rose early and I prepared for the race. We drove to the school for 0730 and the race started at 0800. It was a cloudy day. A lady with ALS, Andrea Peet, was also in town, completing her 50th state, as part of a charitable pursuit of raising awareness for curing this devastating disease of the nervous system. She set off for the marathon at 0750 and we all cheered her on.
The race started, with kids everywhere, but the pack soon spread out. With one pony tailed guy racing out at a crazy pace (he ended up finishing first, running a 1.11) then me and two guys tucked in tight behind me, in a slip stream. The course was picturesque with the beautiful coastline often stretching out as far as the eye could see on one side of the road, trees, mountains and rigorous lumber work on the other side of the road. A regular stream of cars drove past us tooting horns, ringing bells and shouting support for the runners. Especially for the local hero, who was one of those tucked in behind me.




























It was an out and back course, and aid stations were regular, well stocked, very supportive and fun. The course was really undulating. Total elevation gain only ended up around 500’ but it seemed like more. It was certainly a tough slog at times, especially having had COVID seven days before, and still recovering; but I got through it and finished third overall, running a 1.28. The local hero finished a minute ahead in the end, having forged a lead after the turn, and I just didn’t have enough in the tank to track him for a race at the finish. I felt bad about that but I gave it my all.

I collected my medal, took some photos with Mum and Becca after they’d presented me with balloons and a card, and headed back to shower at the Air BnB.





After that, we took some photos of Bald Eagles (some were betting opposite the house), explored the cemetery itself, walked the Cemetery Island Trail together, then headed into Craig on foot. We shopped at some gift shops, grabbed a slice of pizza and some ice cream at Papa’s, explored the fishermen’s peers, drank a couple of ciders at The Hill Bar and headed home – for a snack and a read of our books (I was engrossed in Steinbeck’s ‘Cup of Gold’).


1830 rolled around and we headed back to the High School for race presentations. We had some nice brownies & ice cream, picked up the colouring-in a young student had completed for me, and sat through an arduously long presentation, raffle and prize drawing event. There were an inordinate number of prizes being drawn. I received my prize for third place overall – a beautiful wooden Halibut Fish Trophy – but we ducked out before the end, in order to make it to Papa’s before it closed. We dined in on our nice pizza and salad, then headed home to pack for tomorrow’s departure. I read a little outside, next to the gas fire pit whilst looking out over the men fishing the cove. A bald eagle flew from the roof of the house and glided back to his nest as I climbed the stairs, and bed beckoned.





Sunday morning, we made an early start and drove the 40 minutes to the Hollis ferry terminal. I had a nice breakfast on the ferry, Mum and Becca spotted some whales out in the sea, and I read some more of my book. Various people commented on my race placement, presumably having recognised me from the race presentation the night before, and I reflected upon what a beautiful community spirit existed within the close confines of Prince of Wales Island. No splendour, no grand buildings, but a modest way of life in a beautiful place. A place with a strong Native Alaskan tradition and populous, and a lot of very nice people. I had very much enjoyed my time.
We docked in Ketchikan, unloaded everyone, filled the rental Jeep up with fuel, and boarded the small car ferry to make our way to the airport island. We returned the car, checked in, and flew on the 1330 to Seattle – Landing there around 1630. We picked up luggage and the SUV Hertz rental and drove 90 minutes to the Mountain Meadows Inn, where we were staying. We dipped out for dinner at Wildberry, a Nepalese restaurant just down the road, owned by a Guinness world record holding Nepalese Sherpa – fastest scaling of Everest (achieved in 2003). Our Himalayan fare was very nice, and we headed home to rest and plan our coming days exploring Mount Rainier National Park.
SEA car rental –

Monday morning we rose early and headed into the park. We explored the Longmire Visitors Area and walked the short Trail of The Shadows. We drove on, and up, exploring some vistas en route, and ended up parking at Paradise Visitors Area. We have a good go of walking the Skyline Trail but thick snow carpeted the foothills of the cloud obscured volcanic mountain stretching up from us, and going was tough. We headed back after a good trek and drove back down the mountain. We stopped to explore the Carter Falls Glacier area and river, then grabbed a very overpriced and average lunch back at the Longmire Cabins area. We then walked the five to six mile Rampart Ridge Trail, with 1400’ elevation gain, lots of muddy snow, and some uncertainty over route…then headed back to our lodgings.




Mt Rainier Snow –

















We showered and went out for a very nice dinner at the Copper Creek Inn. We had nice local cider and Mum purchased us some beautiful ceramic coasters as a kind gift. We headed back, checked Mum in for her flight the next evening (easier said than done after an AA cancellation), and headed to bed.
Tuesday we headed back into the park, in much better weather, for some pottering about and photos, then drove the 90 minutes or so to Seattle. We checked out the market, grabbed a famous local grilled cheese, and walked the peer, playing some fun games in one boardwalk location. We grabbed a cider and tea before driving to the airport. We saw off my Mum’s 1915 flight, before flying the 3.5 hours up to Anchorage. We stayed in an Air BnB near the airport.
Day Three in the Park –










Wednesday morning we headed back to the airport for our flight to Kodiak Island. Our Bed & Breakfast host, Lee Robbins, met our flight at Kodiak airport, when it touched down around 0930, and we headed to check in to our hotel. We changed, grabbed food at the local supermarket, and headed for the harbour. Lee took us out on an all-day boat tour, and we saw bald eagles, fin whales, two species of puffin, seals, sea otters, sea lions and other things.





























We grabbed dinner at Henry’s and picked up food for the next morning from Safeway. Kodiak is a small place – a fishing village really – but unlike POW, it is bustling, highly transient, and has a good amount of money running through it – from tourists and big time fishermen with money to throw at drinking. The docks even have some of the boats from Deadliest Catch. When in season, they head out to Unalaska then the Bering Straights to fish for King Crab. When docked in Kodiak, they’re fishing for salmon, herring and other species.
Wednesday we rose early and drove the little Fiat that came with our bed & breakfast ‘room with a car’ down to the sea plane docks. We met Jen and Willy, and spent an unforgettable day on a bear view around Kodiak and mostly Katmai National Park. Amazing creatures. That evening we ate at the Hana Sushi restaurant.
Jen and Willy were a fantastic guiding pair. Jen is a former NP ranger with an immeasurable wealth of knowledge on the subject of Alaskan coastal brown bears, and Willy is one of the best sea plane pilots in the world. He features heavily in Werner Herzog’s ‘Grizzly Man’ documentary movie. He hosted Werner for the duration of his interviews and research in Alaska, flew him around Kodiak and Katmai, and of course, was actually first on the scene after Timothy Treadwell’s unfortunate demise. He had flown in to collect him from a bay near the ‘Grizzly Maze’ – Willy was Timothy’s regular pilot for his remarkable Katmai adventures.


Some more footage from our Bear View –



























































Thursday was our last day on Kodiak. We slept a little then I went out for a run on a local trail with some lovely views and scenery on the route –

We grabbed a cereal – corn dog breakfast in our apartment, and headed out for the day. We drove to White Sand beach via the taxidermy Kodiak bear at our local police station, then called in to Abercrombie State Park – there was a great Military History Museum there, where I bought a Hitler book. We picked up lunch from Big Al’s then went to look at the Kodiak town historic sites. We enjoyed taking in the Russian Orthodox Church, the Alutiiq Museum, the Kodiak History Museum (which is the oldest building in Alaska, and the oldest Russian building in the US), and the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center.



Some interesting things we learned about Kodiak and the Andalusian islands particular in relevance to the Archipelago (where POW is) –

*The Russians saw these islands as northern Russia. They explored east through Siberia and on to the Archipelago, settling on Kodiak in the 1780s, after being fought off the islands while hunting, by native Alaskans, for 20 years.
*Kodiak was treeless. The Alutiiiq people relied on driftwood for quyak and abode construction. The Russians planted all the spruce and other trees.
*The Russians harvested what they saw as Alaska’s most precious commodity – The sea otter. It’s pelt was highly valuable as the thickest of all mammals. However, the Russians couldn’t catch the sea otter very well. So they imprisoned the natives and forced them to hunt for them.
*This is why Kodiak still has the Russian Orthodox Church – funded directly by the Russian state until the Bolshevik revolution – and many Russian place names, roots and historic significance.
*Once the sea otter was harvested to near extinction, Russia agreed to sell Alaska to the US. The US moved in to hunt other animals, fish and search for Gold.
*The US military developed a presence on Kodiak in the 1940s. Hence its funding and higher quality of life vs for instance, POW Island.
*In 1942, six months after Pearl Harbor, the Japanese bombed Dutch Harbor on Unalaska, and successfully invaded the two farthest Andalusian islands, Kiska and Attu. The Empire of the Sun held them for almost a year, until US troops took them back after a bloody battle on Attu in 1943.
*Kodiak was the best fishing in the world for king crab until unchecked overfishing and an earthquake destroyed the supply and ecosystem – sending modern day crabbing vessels to the Bering sea, laying anchor in Dutch Harbor, on Unalaska. Incidentally, an island the Kodiak Natives, the Alutiiq, used to pillage.
*The Alutiiq always made amazing clothing – jackets, parkas, waterproof kayaking gear –

*Katmai National Park, across the bay from Kodiak, recovered from a huge volcanic eruption in the early 1900s and was declared in part, a National Monument, long before the boundaries of the modern day National Park were drawn.
*Bears eat cubs, including their own, bluff charge, and are hyper aware of their surroundings – and constantly reactive to those surroundings, even if it looks like they’re just grazing.
We flew to Anchorage around 1800 Friday evening after a great day, departing Kodiak’s tiny airport while thinking of what a wonderful time we’d had there.
We checked in to the Anchorage Marriott after taxiing into the city. We had a walk around downtown and had dinner in Tequila 61. Saturday morning I had a run along the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail. We checked out late, browsed some stores, grabbed a nice lunch in The Anchorage Cider House and looked round the Anchorage Museum of Alaska. Josh Ritter was performing there that night, so listening to his sound check was fun. Then we rented eBikes and cycled the whole Tony Knowles trail, seeing some moose along the way. We had a delicious dinner at Glacier Brewhouse and Ubered to the airport.







We flew United back to Charlotte via Denver, leaving on the 2330 red eye. We had a little rest in the Denver lounge on our layover, and arrived home around 1600 Sunday.
Here are the best nature photographs from Alaska, after LR post production –



























50 state races done. Final overall placements (not including age group awards) –
*1st Place*
OH 10k trail
WI 10k road
SD 16 mile trail
ND 10k road
IA half road
OR half road
*2nd Place*
AL 10k trail
CT 10k trail
KY half road
MD 10k road
MT half road
PA 4 mile trail
VT half road (in Sunday race)
WY half trail
*3rd Place*
NE 10k road
CO half trail
AK half road
My spoils –

JP 50 State GSheet with info – link
































































































































































































































































































































































































































































